When are you done with editing, where do you stop? This podcast talks all about finding those boundaries: You’ve GOT to pay attention to how you FEEL. If you only use your EYES and not your HEART, you’re missing half of the show. This is something you work on if you don’t automatically feel emotion when you see a photo Try this for fresh eyes: mess your photo up on purpose, by pulling one slider all the way down or up, then pull it back to where you think it should go Ask yourself this: how does your photo compare to the photo of someone you respect? Copy their editing. As you go back and forth between YOUR work and THEIRS, you’ll start noticing a bunch of differences. THIS IS GOLD, because it helps you see what you’re missing. Look into these: dodge and burn techniques, sharpening, faded shadows, super heavy contrast, higher contrast w/lower saturation You’ve gotta experiment. If you’re in Lightroom, try different presets! Alien Skin, Mastin Labs, VSCO (we use these), Coles Classroom Presets Cole’s Classroom has a FREE preset pack you’ve gotta check out here. Another tip here: reach out to other photographers for their feedback. This is only good BEFORE you’re set on a style. Once you find a style, STOP LISTENING to other people because you have to have your own opinion eventually. If you got value from this podcast, PLEASE review this podcast! It inspires and motivates me to create even more and better content.
Hey guys here’s the third video in the series about histograms — if you need an overview about what the heck a histogram even is, go back to the first video and start there, then meet me back here in a little bit. Today we’re talking about color curves. Color curves are awesome because basically it’s a histogram but you can mess with it and change it. Over on the left side here, this is all darks, and over on the right side here, this is all brights. And I’ve got a line here, it’s almost like a string that I can pull whichever way I want, to basically change how things are either dark or bright. Now you can really really mess up your image quite quickly with curves, but you can also make some awesome changes if you know what you’re doing. First things first, look at this point right here. This point is saying, left to right, the LOCATION for what you’re changing is the DARKS. I’m over here in the dark area all the way over to the left. So that location is what you’re thinking about. As you go UP AND DOWN, that’s going to be WHAT YOU CHANGE IT TO. So right now, the darks are plotted on this graph — if they’re dark (on the left side) then this line is saying, okay leave them dark. Now what we’re going to do next, is if they’re dark (on the left side), but now I’m going UP, it’s saying TAKE THE DARKS that are in this area, and pull them up towards white/bright. “And I’ve got a line here, it’s almost like a string that I can pull whichever way I want, to basically change how things are either dark or bright.” And if […]
Hey guys thanks for joining me! This is a video about Histograms (Part 2) If you need an overview, check out the last video. This is going to be a quick trip from one photo to the next to be able to see the differences in the histograms. Right away! Look over here and we can see that there’s a good handful of darks, even MORE mids, and then a huge spike over here for the highlights/brights. Take a look at this image — this is mainly a bunch of darks and then mainly a bunch of brights. Even though we have mids in the middle, there’s a huge spike of these darks, and then a huge bunch of whites and not as many in the middle. Come over here and look at this image: you can see this huge spike on the right side, it’s basically pegged to the right side — now what the heck does that tell me? The thing is that the couple in the photo is pretty well properly exposed, but this histogram is telling me that it’s pegged to the right side which means there’s a bunch of brights! “You can see this huge spike on the right side…now what the heck does that tell me?” Well, the brights are high because of the huge area in the background. If I just select this area here, you can see it’s pegged to the right. When I pull the box down to the darker area, the histogram starts pulling more down towards the darks although it’s mainly still in the brights. Now if I choose the couple mainly, I gets highs and lows but the histogram is more in the center, versus something like this which is pegged completely. Or down here, I’m getting a […]
I’ve heard this question over and over again…”What is a histogram?” or “How do I know I’m exposing right in camera?” If you already know what a histogram is, this video is not going to be helpful to you at all, this is an OVERVIEW on histograms. But! If you struggle with exposure, if you struggle with making sure you know you have the right exposure in camera on location or whatever else, this is going to be super super helpful to you. This is my secret weapon when it comes to really knowing quickly whether I’ve done a good job with exposure or not. Take a look at this histogram over here! It’s basically just a graph of how many brights we have (over on the right side), how many darks we have, or how many mids we have. So it’s just a graph of dark on the left side, bright (or white) on the right side, and then mids in the middle! It’s just going from dark going all the way to bright, and it’s giving us mountains of information — the black mountain is going to show up higher if there’s MORE of THAT in the image. “This is my secret weapon when it comes to really knowing quickly whether I’ve done a good job with exposure or not.” So this guy over here, there’s a ton of this, ton of that, not much of this, but then we have a good amount of mids or upper mids here, and then as we go all the way down, there’s a little peak near the shadows, so the HIGHER up we go here, shows up how MUCH we have, and as we go left/right, we’re going from dark to bright. Are you more comfortable with the answer to the […]
[thrive_leads id=’2347′] How the heck do we get our images looking great on Facebook AND also deliver high-quality printable images to clients? Here’s a quick walk-through of our export settings from Lightroom. Let’s just get right to the good stuff (feel free to just copy these), and if you’re interested in learning WHY we made these decisions on settings, keep reading. If you want internet-size images (easily uploaded but still high-quality), copy these settings: If you want archive-size printable images, copy these settings: And now all the explanation: For the INTERNET-SIZE images, the first thought here is Facebook. Their max resolution is 2048px (we just decided to go with 2000px, but knock yourself out if you want to change it to 2048px), so we’re almost at the max resolution, There’s a bit of a misnomer about the “RESOLUTION” section, and without getting into it too much, it doesn’t matter AT ALL if you export images based on how many pixels wide or long. You’re welcome to change it to 72 ppi or 300ppi or 4,032 ppi and still the file that comes out will be the exact same size. Also, images that show up online will be displayed at the resolution of your screen (which is why RETINA screens look so much better and clearer, they have a better resolution than regular screens). Another side note: if your images on your website look WORSE on a RETINA screen, it means they’re not big enough to begin with. If you’re worried about that, here’s a quick read on optimizing your images on your website. “You’re welcome to change it to 72 ppi or 300ppi or 4,032 ppi and still the file that comes out will be the exact same size.” For printing, the dpi/ppi DOES matter, because each […]
I had been told by a handful of photographers to try to use Photo Mechanic to speed up our culling of images, and for a while I just brushed them off, because I was happy with Lightroom, and I had figured out how to render 1:1 images, so I could fly through images pretty fast. Also, Photo Mechanic was pretty expensive (or at least that’s how I saw it then) and I wasn’t trying to spend extra money. Then, I actually used it and everything changed. This video, “Culling in Photo Mechanic and Lightroom Tutorial” will show you how much time you can save! This software FLIES through raw files like you wouldn’t believe. We will never go back to culling in Lightroom. Ever. Take a look at the video below where I show you the speed of this software. Transcription: Hi! This is Eddie from Grainhappy.com and today I want to introduce you to a software that has totally changed our lives. This is called Photo Mechanic and as you can see as I’m flipping through images they’re moving real fast. Now these are raw images so honestly when you’re moving from one photo to the next in Lightroom, it is not this fast! You can definitely render previews, you can render Standard or render 1:1 and if you’ve got a fast computer then you’re definitely saving time there but honestly, this software has saved us so much time. If you think, let’s just say you take 2000 photos on a Wedding Day and it takes two seconds to move from one photo to the next, that’s 4000 seconds TO JUST EDIT ONE WEDDING! 4000 seconds that is just time wasted just waiting for the next photo to show up, so it’s really worth it. Take a look at […]